IPA is Dead? I think not

By David Gilks

You either love or hate the Scottish brewery Brewdog.  They deliberately create controversy, breaking the British brewing mainstream and producing ridiculous beers like Tactical Nuclear Penguin, their 32% ice-distilled Imperial Stout.  That said, they also make some quality beer, and are one of the few breweries we get in Australia that produce a commendable American IPA.

Brewdog recently release a series of four single hopped American IPAs called IPA is Dead.  Using four of their favourite hops, Bramling X (UK), Citra (USA), Sorachi Ace (Japan) and Nelson Sauvin (NZ), Brewdog sought to highlight the features of these hops in a 7.5% single-hop IPA.  All four beers use the same malt backbone and the same late hopping schedule, with the only difference being the amount of bittering hops used to get the beer to its 75 IBU.

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The Bramling X has a lovely aroma with berry, apple and stone fruit all being present. Light floral notes add complexity to the hop character as does a mild herbal note. The flavour is a little different with the bitterness being a little harsh while the fruit notes are a little subdued.  The berries still come through though and Bramling X shows itself to be a tasty and underappreciated hop.

Citra is ripe with bright mango and passionfruit notes with hints of pineapple, peach and lime. This is a truly tropical hop with lots of late-hopping potential. It is also really sweet on the nose with a rich sweetness almost akin to tinned fruit salad.  The flavour is equally fresh and fruity with an initial hit of citrus, blending into tart tropical fruits.  The mid-palate and finish fall off a little bit with the hop flavour being just a touch one dimensional.  The bitterness is really crisp and clean and much more balanced than the Bramling X.

Up next is Sorachi Ace.  This Japanese hop is a bit of an oddball and completely unlike any other hop i’ve tasted.  The aroma is lemony and herbal with notes of lemon thyme and pepper.  There are also some interesting vinous and custard notes that come through.  Unfortunately, this hop provides a nice aroma but falls down in the flavour department, with the lemon falling a little flat and a musty note coming through that accentuates the herbal character. I’m not convinced that Sorachi Ace is the best hop to use in an IPA. The flavours and aromas seem to be more suited to a Belgian Pale Ale or a Saison where the hop flavours can complement the lemon and herb notes of the Sorachi Ace.

The final hop is the antipodean contender, Nelson Sauvin.  This New Zealand hop is familiar to most Australian beer lovers with rich, fruity aromas or grape, mango and orange coming through. There’s a slight mint note, which is great, and the aroma is absolutely enticing.  The flavour is a bit of a let down, with the robust grape and tropical fruit notes from the aroma falling back to a background note with a crisp, clean but powerful bitterness being the dominant factor.  On the whole though, you can see how Nelson Sauvin is a useful hop with great potential in combination with other hops.

The Brewdog IPA is Dead series is an interesting look at the world of flavour as it relates to beer, with its world tour of hops showcasing what each can bring to a hoppy beer. On the whole, Bramling X is a unique hop with great aroma but Citra shines as an all rounder that is complex enough to work by itself and with other hops. These beers aren’t designed to be drunk all day long and, for most of them, one is all you would want but they are a great way to get a feel for a hop, and are well worth a try.

The Brewdog IPA is Dead 4-pack ($34.95) is available from Plonk! at the Fyshwick Markets.

[Ed: word has it this sold out at Plonk the day after they received it!]